Friday, January 28, 2011

Exploring The City On Our Own

Today was a fantastic day. My 3 new best friends, Veronica, Tin and Joyce

took a cab to La Concha, the largest bazaar I have ever been to in my life. It was so full of local color.

We spent well over an hour walking through a tiny fraction of it. The main section has an enclosed roof, and inside are hundreds & hundreds of little stalls that sell everything imaginable. See pics. You can select material for a suit and the tailor is there sitting behind a sewing machine making it.





Then we walked to another part of town passing on our way a local band of young woman & men dancing a tradition dance practicing for Carnival. It was so delightful to just come upon this colorful scene.






We ended the day by going to a Chinese restaurant and talking over our meal for about 2 hrs. We are getting into the leisurely mode of Latin America, savoring life.

A New Week

I am establishing a comfortable routine. Class for 4 hours in the morning, then dinner with my host family, then siesta, then a study session with Veronica and Joyce or shopping , then back home and another study session with Mary followed by some TV news, then supper at 8 PM and more homework. It sounds grueling and it is but everyone, including my teachers, fellow students and host family are so incredibly supportive and encouraging that I am able to keep up this schedule, even though my brain gets fried and shuts down often.



My host mother Mary is a gem. When I told Kathryn, my friend of many years, that I had never been so coddled in my whole life, she said, “It’s about time”. I agree. Mary has breakfast ready for me in the morning, fresh juice of an orange, papaya, mango or peach followed by an oat type cereal with yogurt and more fruit and anis tea (my favorite). When I return from class she has my room cleaned and clothes washed and folded on my bed and dinner ready.

My 3 new best friends, Veronica, Joyce and Tin are planning to poke around the city on our own this weekend.


Tin, one of the original “boat people” refugees from Viet Nam, told us about his journey to the priesthood. He remembers when he was 14 years old passionately asking God ,”What was I born for?” He won a scholarship to a Calif. University and got a degree in mechanical engineering graduating at 21. He was immediately hired by a new start up company in Silicon Valley, Intel to work on developing a computer program. He made a fabulous amount of money but felt unfulfilled and underneath was a very angry man. His father challenged him one day saying “Tin, until you get rid of your anger you will never be a happy man”. Eventually in his early thirties he worked through his anger found his way into the priesthood, a missionary order. His parents arrived from Viet Nam with their 11 children and one on the way and both sets of grandparents. They were placed in upstate Pennsylvania for 2 years and then were able to go to a fishing village near Monterey on the coast of California. He is my guardian angel. He walks me home from class and carries my books. Soooo sweet.

Joyce is from Hong Kong. She is 54, single and a Baptist minister, studying Spanish for ministry in Colombia. Her parents were both from large families in North China but were the soul survivors of their family due to WW II. When her parents met and married they wanted to have many children to replenish their family line. She is one of 10.

Veronica took an early retirement from her government job and followed her dream to become a massage therapist. After putting in 10 years of that she is combining her love of travel ( she’s been all over India & east Asia ) with her desire for ministry to the poor. She will be staying on after the language program for the 6 months “Short Term Volunteer Program” with Maryknoll.

A delightful “small world” story: Chenoa, one of the younger students e-mailed me some pics from our class trip to Cochabamba last weekend. I forwarded them to my contact list and one of my Pittsburgh friends recognized her name & picture. She went to high school in Pgh. with her daughter. Chenoa is now a Presbyterian Missionary and has served in East Timor and Cambodia. Don’t you just love it!!!!!! Pix of Chenoa & Ellen.



Ellen is in graduate school working on a M.Div. degree and is considering getting certified in hospital chaplaincy. I am certainly among like-minded others.
Class is still very difficult but I can see some progress even though the effort I put in has seemingly so little to show for it. I forgot how painful it is to feel so dumb. pic

I’m beginning to see how the emotional growth that hopefully comes out of this experience will be as significant as the intellectual ones. All my emotional associations related to not-understanding are erupting in my face. In and of itself not-understanding is not an especially negative experience but all my emotional associations with it are extremely negative, the feelings of powerlessness , vulnerability, incompetence, inadequacy, etc. It gives me sympathy for what I must have gone through as a child. My challenge now is to recognize my emotional reactions for what they are, (conditioned responses) and nothing more.

Last night I was extremely wrought up over my lack of progress with my homework assignments. At supper Alfredo put on a cd of Isaac Perelman. Listening to it felt like angels had come and lifted me out of my morass of frustration. When he saw my delight he put on another cd of 12 cellists playing with the German Symphony Orchestra, music from the Beatles. Then Marcus put on his favorite cd of Richard Garrett , a young violin virtuoso from Germany. The evening turned into a music fest. I told them that I won’t have to walk up the stairs to my room, I’ll just levitate.

Every Wed. we have a seminar in Spanish. We are given the vocabulary words on the previous Friday along with the outline of the talk and discuss it in class on Monday & Tuesday. Last week’s seminar was on Health & Safety in Bolivia. This week’s topic is on the Bolivian Family. I was amazed that I was able to follow about 80 % of the talk . Reading Spanish is the easiest, followed by listening. Engaging in conversation is the most difficult.

There are also short courses offered by visiting professors. Next week Jeff Klaiber, a Jesuit priest working in Peru, is offering a workshop on The Church in Latin America. Jeff does an excellent job in helping us understand the religious and political realities that influence mission and ministry in Latin America. The workshop will be in English. It will be in the afternoons at 4:30 - 6:30, every day next week

One day during class break thee secretary came up to me and asked me for my parents names. In puzzlement I gave them to her, then she said that after the last class I need to go with her to the Interpol police station to be interviewed. The look on my face prompted my buddy Veronica to offer to come with me. Then it was explained that this was a routine formality for all the students (including Veronica & tin and myself who are staying in Bolivia after the language classes end in June. At the police station in La Plaza Central, is was so apparent just how poor the government is. The facility looked like it was furnished from a “Good Will” store 50 years ago. Everything was dirty and worn out. We were fingerprinted and photographed and signed more documents for our extended visa applications. In the taxi ride through slow very busy traffic to this downtown plaza old wrinkled Indian woman would come up and knock on the cab windows begging. In the states I’ve gotten used to the site of “street people “,young men mostly, begging on the streets down town but to see very old woman doing this breaks my heart.

Veronica and I ventured forth in a cab to a hairdresser recommend by one of the professors. Cesar did a very good job and while he worked on my hair I closed my eyes and listening to the American rap music I could imagine that I was back at a hair salon in the states.

The following day I discovered that the frame on my eye glasses were broken. Mary immediately offered to take them to an optical shop for repair and when I gratefully accepted off she went to return in half an hour.

I’ve ventured forth on my own to do a little shopping on the Avenue of the Americas, 2 blocks from my house. I found a store that sold school supplies. Oh joy, now I own a magic marker, post it notes, several size note books. The avenue is a main thoroughfare lined with tiny, tiny shops and nowhere did anyone speak English.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

The First Week of Class




The first 2 days at the Institute (pic) were orientation, getting acquainted and learning about health & safety issues in Cochabamba. The other students are a wonderful mix of ages, backgrounds, nationalities. Married couples, one with 3 pre-school children. Catholic priests & sisters, several new Maryknoll Lay Missionaries.( 3 yr commitment), many college students. We are from all over the US and Swisserland, the Bahamas, Viet Nam, Hong Kong, Korea. Mostly Catholics but several Reformed congregations represented as well and many of the students have no religious affiliation at all but are welcome and made to feel at home.(pic)


On Wed. my first actual day of language class I was pared up with a Korean MaryKnoll sister who speaks no English. (pic) We have 4 native Bolivian teachers who team teach us for 1 hour each with tea (mate de coca) breaks between each class. They only speak Bollivian.


I could hardly understand a thing, (pic) Couldn’t understand the homework assignments, would have a brain freeze when asked to repeat the simplest phrases. My old pattern of being overwhelmed & feeling helpless & hopeless kicked in and I had an emotional meltdown in class. Poor Oscar (pic) didn’t know what to do. I excused myself from class and took a walk around the beautiful campus until I calmed down.


When I returned to my home I told my host family what happened in class and they were all so empathetic & supportive. Marcus (25 yrs.) played some of his favorite music on his iphone ( he’s crazy about it) for me (Bob Marklay & Pink Floyd) After a good night’s sleep I felt ready for another go at it.
My first class of the day went better but after the break for tea I was hit with a bout of Montezuma’s revenge. It was awful, I’ll spare you the details. The secretary called my house mother then called a taxi. When I arrived home Mary was waiting at the door for me and sent Marcus to the pharmacy for the recommended medications.
After siesta I felt chilled then hot then I began vomiting and couldn’t even hold water down. The family insisted on driving me to a local clinic and off we all went with Marcus as interpreter. The pretty young woman MD (who would later ask him for his phone #) gave me a shot for the nausea and a script of meds. to be filled. That all cost me a total of 42 American dollars.
I stayed home the next day and rested. Mary and I watched EWTN broadcast, from the U.S. of the Rosary. The familiar prayers were soothing.
Saturday fortunately I felt well enough to join the class tour of Cochabamba, the old central plaza were the 18th centuray cathedral is located and the newer shopping areas with restaurants etc. and a ride up to El Christo which over looks the city and we finished up with dinner at a lovely resort just outside the city. (pics) In spite of still feeling a little wiped out it was a delightful day.
















On Sunday, my new best friend & study partner Veronica (pic) came to visit me. Since I was still feeling queasy, she (who is a world traveler) reminded me to only eat small portions until my body gets acclimated. I had forgotten that important bit of advice and was thoroughly indulging myself with Mary’s delicious meals.


Later on my son Chris & his wife Carrie Skyped me and it felt so good to have that connection. Mary has begun helping me with my homework, pronunciations etc. She seems to thoroughly enjoy this. I think she is a natural born teacher. For the first time I began to feel confident that I will be able to learn enough Spanish to be proficient. With all this support & encouragement how can I possibly fail?

Monday on the morning radio program I heard the name Martin Luther King and remembered who’s day it was. I’m ready to begin another week of classes.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Continuation

I was planning to give the money to the young woman with the baby but when I got to the doorway the crowed of beggars had swelled to half a dozen clamoring for hand outs. I walked through them and gave the young mom my bolivar. A wrinkled old Indian woman grabbed my wrist and jabbering away at me & wouldn't let me go. I was afraid to open my wallet for fear of creating a stampede so I just yanked my arm away from her and walked away. It was a bit disconcerting to see people carrying bejeweled  baby Jesus's walking past a living baby in his mother's begging arms.

After siesta I took a stroll through the park. It was filled with parents & children. (see pics) I had a delightful surprise in running into Mary's cousin with her 2 little girls & her parents. My second day here and I meet people I know in the part.

Then Mary & I watched last year's rerun of Dancing With the Stars with Spanish subtitles. They also get BBC & CNN in English.

Even though my Spanish is minimal I think it gives me a toe hold in conversing. Strangely enough my biggest fear of sounding like an idiot has not materialized. Everyone seems so pleased with my efforts that I feel fine. Even though I didn't make as much progress on the Rosetta Stone as I had wanted I'm glad that I got as far as I did.

The day ended with a visit from their middle son & his wife & 6 mo. old baby boy. I'm so happy to be a part of this loving family during my stay in Bolivia. Tomorrow I begin my classes at the Maryknoll Language Program, 10 minutes away.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

The Jumping Off Point

My dear friends Anne &Jack MacFadyen now retired and living in South Florida gave me a gracious send off wining & dinning me with some of their Pax Christi friends and Pgh. snow birds Michael & Joyce, then driving me to Miami airport where after a mad scramble rearranged 3 lbs. of cloths from my over wei.ght suitcase, then gave me hugs & kisses and I straightened my back and walked towards the International gates.
The flight to La Paz left on time and I managed to sleep most of the 6 h.ours. The La Paz airport (13000 ft. altitude) was very small and I made it through customs and to the ticket counter of the airline for the half hour flight to Cochabamba ( 8000 ft elevation). Everyone at the airport was very friendly and I managed to convey my needs with my minimal Spanish. No signs of altitude sickness until the plane took off and I broke out in a cold, sweat, nausea and a quick trip to the bathroom (el bano). When we landed I felt better but I must have looked pale because the steward offered to carry my bag into the terminal where Mary &Alfredo were waiting with BIG smiles.
Mary understands some English but speaks none. Alfredo understands more and speaks some. On the  Durham, N. Carolina and has a 2 yr. old boy, the youngest Marcos who isn't married lives at home and speaks fluent English and plays the guitar.
Their home is very spacious with old colonial touches like beautiful parquet floors and very high ceilings. It is one block from Abraham Lincoln Park. My bedroom has large closets, a private bath and small balcony. The kitchen has a GE stove with English labels. They only drink bottled water, even for brushing teeth and they drink coca leaf tea which tastes like green tea.
After 1 PM dinner & siesta Mary's niece came by. She graduated from Wellsley College and went white water rafting at Ohiopyle .
Mary & Alfredo have hosted 10 other Maryknoll students, an American bishop, a retired MD and a student from Harvard.
Sunday morning I walked to the Catholic Church, 10 minutes away. Outside the church there were  2 Indian women begging, one was young with an infant. I could follow the gist of the service. It gave me a renewed appreciation for the universal church. Many people carried in small decorated baskets, statues of baby Jesus wearing crowns and bejeweled royal robes of satin & velvet an.d placed them at the foot of the alter. At the end of Mass the priest blessed all of them. Leaving the church I took a small Bolivian bill from my wallet